Cactus Pete's Steakhouse,

400 Park Avenue, Worcester, (508) 752-3038.

The motif is unmistakably Southwestern"bleached cattle skulls, horns, saddles, and beer signs " but stays well this side of kitsch. Familiar seafood and Italian influences have been creatively fused with more expected Tex-Mex dishes including a full page of steaks plus plenty of ribs, chicken, and seafood. Service is cordial, knowledgeable, and fast.

Price Range: $6 - $17.